How it works

Waxing is a hair removal method that involves lifting or removing hair from the follicle by force with either hot or cold wax, and is suited to both small and large areas, such as eyebrows, upper lips, legs, bikini and underarms. In particular, dermatologist Heather Brannon, MD notes that waxing works especially well on large areas where you want a lot of hair removed quickly, making it very ideal for bathing suit season.

Whether in a salon or at home, there are three steps to perfectly waxed skin:

  1. Wax is heated to a slightly warm (but never hot) temperature and a soft, spreadable consistency, similar to corn syrup.

  2. Next, a thin layer of wax is applied to the skin. When wax touches the skin, sticky resins in the wax lock onto hair. Then, a muslin or cloth strip is pressed firmly and quickly into the wax.

  3. When the wax has cooled slightly, the muslin strip is pulled off very quickly, in the opposite direction of the hair growth, taking hair with it.

One of the greatest benefits of waxing is actually during the re-growth phase. Unlike shaving or other hair removal methods, hair tends to look finer and thinner with consistent waxing. What does this mean for you? Eventually, a reduction in hair growth, and when hair does grow back, it will be less noticeable and, easier to remove, which equals less pain. This takes time, though; in fact, after your first waxing, hair may seem to grow back more quickly, but don’t lose faith. Like almost all skincare regimens, waxing requires dedication and consistency to see the best results.

At-home

Waxing doesn’t necessarily mean a trip to the salon — you can get everything you need in an at-home kit, which saves time, money and is massively convenient. Generally, there are two types of at-home waxing kits — those that require a muslin cloth to remove the hair, and those where the wax itself is ripped from the skin with no cloth. Both methods require the same basic protocol. As in a salon, wax should be heated according to manufacturer’s directions to the appropriate consistency, and then applied in a thin layer to the area to be epilated. If muslin or cloth strips are being used, smooth one quickly over the wax, pull skin taut and then rapidly pull the cloth strip off of the skin in one swift motion.

For stripless methods, heat wax per manufacturer’s instructions and apply to the skin. After a few seconds, firmly grip a corner of the wax and pull away from the skin in one firm motion. Bliss Poetic Waxing Kit is a complete, at-home, self-waxing kit designed for use on all areas that need to be hair-free, and comes with pre and post waxing lotion, a heating cup and an applicator for professional hair removal results in the comfort of home.

Well begun is half done

The key to waxing is to ensure that the skin is clean and free of dirt or oil, so before any wax is heated, take a few moments to prep the skin. Soak a cotton ball with a deep-cleansing astringent such as La Roche Possay Effaclar Toner Astringent Lotion and gently wipe the area to be waxed. If waxing a larger area, refrain from applying body lotion or cream as this can interfere with the wax adhering to the hair.

Unfortunately, waxing can be painful, but remember that everyone has a different perception of pain and, many waxing aficionados report that with time, the pain recedes. Also, the first time an area is waxed is typically the most painful. Whether a novice or a veteran, there are a few tricks to reduce discomfort. For the upper lip (or other small areas) apply Anbesol gel beforehand to numb the area. For overall comfort, pop two aspirin a few hours before waxing. If you wait until you’re ready to wax — or after — it’s too late. Finally, if possible, consider getting a prescription from your doctor for Emla cream, a topical numbing cream often used on children for suturing and stitches that will numb the area and reduce pain.

Post-wax care

A great waxing experience doesn’t stop when all the hair is gone. If any wax is leftover on the skin, douse a cotton ball in baby oil and gently wipe the area clean. Then, to minimize swelling and redness, apply a cold compress to the area. A wet washcloth or ice pack (wrapped in a towel) is ideal. Also ideal is a soothing cream such as ATOPALM MLE Cream, which will also help reduce redness. For the face, calm redness on the upper lip or eyebrows with Peter Thomas Roth Cucumber Gel Masque which contains aloe vera and other natural extracts.

One of the biggest concerns after waxing is ingrown hairs, or more specifically, how to prevent them. One great way to minimize the risk of ingrown hairs is to use salicylic acid. A great choice is Bliss Ingrown Hair Eliminating Peeling Pads. Never apply salicylic (or any other acid) to freshly waxed skin as it may sting or burn. Instead, wait at least one day before treating the area.

Complications

Very rarely, waxing will have negative side effects. If the wax is too hot, the potential for a burn is extremely high. When waxing at home, always follow directions for heating the wax carefully and check the temperature before applying to the skin. And use common sense: if the wax is steaming or the container seems extremely hot, wait and let the wax cool before proceeding. When at a spa, speak up and tell the esthetician if the wax feels too hot.

Also possible are pigment changes to the skin from waxing. Some women will find areas of hyperpigmentation on the skin as a result of waxing, especially around the upper lip. For many women, this hyperpigmentation will fade with time, but if you are very concerned, you may want to investigate other hair removal methods for this area.

And finally, although a safe and effective means of hair removal, waxing isn’t for everyone. Women who use topical retinoid treatments shouldn’t wax because retinoids may increase the risk of burning. Also, if you’ve recently had a chemical peel, don’t wax until your skin has healed and is no longer flaking and dry. The same goes for sunburned skin. Never wax right before menstruation as the skin is extra sensitive and waxing may be more painful at this time.