Skincare 101: Oily Skin

It’s been commonly said that oily skin is slower to show fine lines, discoloration and wrinkles, but if you actually suffer from this condition, you may feel as though you’re forever fighting a losing battle to remove the shine from your forehead and chin. What causes oily skin and how do you take care of it?

Back to basics

There are five basic skin types: normal, dry, oily, combination and mature, and sometimes, certain people will be a combination of two or more types. Confused about which one describes you? Try this simple test. Gently press a square of rice or blotting paper over the face, focusing on the nose, forehead and chin (or the T-zone). If the paper doesn’t stick to the skin or change color, most likely, your skin is normal to dry. If the paper sticks to the skin, especially in the T-zone, or turns a translucent color (from blotting up a lot of sebum), you most likely have combination or oily skin. Keep in mind, however, that skin is highly adaptable, and it’s not uncommon (especially during the hottest months of summer and coldest of winter) for skin to also exhibit different characteristics during these seasons, or in very humid environments (where even the driest skin might tend to look a little shiny).

What is oily skin?

Oily skin is skin that has overactive sebaceous glands, the glands responsible for producing sebum, which is a substance that looks like oil and acts as the skins natural moisturizer. Sebaceous glands are located all over the body, with a high concentration of them found on the face and back. When these glands are over-active and produce a higher-than-normal amount of sebum, the pores may stretch and darken, appearing larger and they are, commonly referred to as blackheads.

Generally speaking, every person has a unique amount of sebum on their skin. And although oily skin is often associated with hormonal shifts and adolescence, there are actually a number of factors that can contribute to this condition. Genetics, medications and even certain cosmetics or skincare products could potentially cause the skin to look oilier, especially if they are very occlusive or heavy. Research has shown that oily skin is most often triggered by hormonal changes, and according to dermatologist Doris J. Day, M.D., associate professor at the NYU School of Medicine, "Oil production is stimulated by hormone production — so anything that causes hormones to fluctuate can cause skin to become more oily." And according to WebMd, women are especially affected by hormonal changes that occur not only during puberty, but also during pregnancy and pre-menopause.

What it needs

Regardless of the cause, oily skin is most often characterized by a shiny appearance and enlarged pores, and frequently, blemishes and breakouts. A proper skincare regimen is absolutely essential for oily skin as it will help minimize the appearance of oil, improve texture and tone and reduce blemishes.

1. Gear up. Stock up on products specifically designed to meet the challenges of oily skin, such as Skinceuticals Skin System III or Boscia Normal to Oily Kit. Both feature products specially designed to clear and purify oily or acne-prone skin.


2. Well begun is half done. In order to wash away pore-clogging oil, dirt and makeup, daily cleansing every morning and night is vital; however, resist the urge to cleanse more than twice per day as too frequent cleaning can be over-drying to the skin. When it comes to choosing a cleanser aimed at oily skin, gentle cleansing is key. Joel Schlessinger, MD, president-elect of the American Society of Cosmetic Dermatology and Aesthetic Surgery, states: "Oil production is nature’s response to irritation — so the harsher the cleansing, the more likely the body is to respond by producing more oil." Therefore, avoid extremely harsh products that will strip your skin of its natural oils, and never use plain soap and water. Instead, look for a gentle cleanser specifically targeted to oily skin, such as La Roche Posay Effaclar Deep Cleansing Foaming Cleanser.


3. Refine with clay and mud. Deep cleansing clay and mud masks may not actually decrease the amount of oil on the skin long term, but they definitely improve the appearance, texture and tone of oily skin. Some good choices include Astara Violet Flame Enzyme Mask and SkinCeuticals Clarifying Clay Mask.


4. An ounce of prevention. Wearing sunscreen daily is one of the best ways to care for your skin, regardless of skin type, but if you have oily skin, try an oil-free formula with SPF 15 or higher. Peter Thomas Roth Uber Dry Sunscreen with SPF 30 is a great, non-oily formula that feels virtually undetectable on the skin.


5. Don't forget the moisture. The final step in a comprehensive skin care regimen for oily skin is to moisturize, but many people may omit this step because they feel it can make matters worse. Experts disagree and note that oily skin sufferers still need to moisturize, especially after using skincare products that remove oils or refine with active ingredients such as salicylic or glycolic. Best bets are oil-free or water-based formulas that won’t clog pores, such as Joey New York Pure Pores Oil Blotting Moisturizer.

Improving Acne Scars and Discoloration

Long after your acne outbreaks have vanished, unsightly marks and discoloration can still remain — leaving you embarrassed, upset and frustrated. So, what can you do? Start by learning about your treatment options and consult a reputable and experienced dermatologist.

Is it even a scar?

For starters, it’s important to determine whether your scar really is a scar and not temporary redness — or macules, which can last as long as six months — or discoloration — known as post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), lingering for up to 18 months — according to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD).

To distinguish short-term spots from authentic acne scars, dermatologist Leslie Baumann, M.D., suggests these tell-tale signs on Yahoo Health:

• A scar feels different from the rest of your skin.
• Its base is typically higher or lower than the surrounding skin.
• If redness or discoloration persists after three months, it’s likely a scar (though this isn’t always the case).

If it isn’t

Over time, hyperpigmentation will fade on its own. But if you’d like to accelerate the process, the below treatments can help. Unfortunately, it’s not an instant recovery — expect to see results in months, not weeks, writes skincare expert Angela Palmer for About. It can take six to 12 months for discoloration to fade with treatment, according to eMedicine.

• Sunscreen: Though you should use sunscreen every day anyway, when treating discoloration, it’s even more important. Sun exposure can stall any noticeable results from treatment or exacerbate discoloration overall.
• Product picks: Z. Bigatti Silk Screen SPF 30 Sunscreen, Dr. Michelle Copeland SPF 40 Lotion Mist Sun Block, MD Skincare Powerful Sun Protection SPF 30 Sunscreen Lotion.
• Hydroquinone: It’s the most common and effective ingredient to lighten the skin. Hydroquinone works by blocking the enzyme, tyrosinase, which produces melanin. It comes in strengths of 2 percent over the counter or higher by prescription only. Palmer recommends consulting your dermatologist before using a hydroquinone product.

  Recently, the FDA raised some concerns over hydroquinone’s safety, proposing a ban on over-the-counter products. In response, the dermatology community has voiced their disagreement, pointing to hydroquinone’s history as a safe and effective treatment.

  • Product picks: DDF Fade Gel 4, Murad Post Acne Spot Lightening Gel, Celazome Fade Shades Lightening Cream.

• Kojic acid: If you’d prefer an alternative to hydroquinone, try kojic acid, which also inhibits tyrosinase. Derived from fungus, kojic acid seems to be just as effective as hydroquinone, according to research. Unfortunately, it’s fairly unstable in skincare formulas. So, some companies use kojic acid dipalmitate instead, but it’s unclear whether this derivative is as effective as kojic acid.
• Product picks: Jan Marini Bioglycolic Lightening Gel, NeoStrata Skin Brightening Gel, Dr. Michelle Copeland Pigment Formula.
• Azelaic acid: Another alternative to hydroquinone, azelaic acid is a naturally occurring chemical that’s available by prescription only. Used commonly to combat acne, this tyrosinase-inhibitor is also prescribed to treat hyperpigmentation.
• Retinoids: Well-known for their powerful ability to increase cell turnover, retinoids, like Retin-A, are highly effective in treating acne. Fortunately, they can also help with hyperpigmentation.
• Alpha hydroxy acids: Also a well-established acne treatment, alpha hydroxy acids are effective exfoliators that combat hyperpigmentation. Particularly helpful is glycolic acid. When combined with 2 percent hydroquinone, glycolic acid-based products make for a successful treatment, according to iVillage.
• Product picks: MaMa Lotion, pH Advantage Boosters Pigmentation Fader.

Common acne scars

• Icepick scars: So called because it looks like an icepick pierced the skin, these scars are narrow but deep. They "usually result from severe, pustule-like acne" and are more prevalent in light-skinned individuals, according to iVillage.
• Rolling scars: As their name suggests, rolling scars have a wave-like appearance.
• Boxcar scars: They resemble chicken pox scars, appearing commonly on the cheeks and temples.
• Keloid/hypertropic scars: These raised scars are the result of an overgrowth of tissue during the healing process. African Americans are particularly prone to this kind of scarring.

If it’s a scar: Professional treatments

There isn’t a one-size-fits-all, standard treatment for acne scars. Factors like the type of scar, location, depth and size determine the treatment your dermatologist will recommend.

• Chemical peels: A peeling solution that uses chemicals, such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid or trichloroacetic acid (TCA). Chemical peels eliminate dead skin cells, so that new, healthier skin can emerge. Each solution has a varying strength. Not surprisingly, the deeper peels are more effective, but have potential side effects like skin discoloration and scarring.

  According to the AAD, chemical peels aren’t effective for icepick or keloid scars. Agrees acne specialist Jerry K. L. Tan, M.D., who writes that chemical peels "do little for scars" but are useful for improving skin tone. Also, chemical peels can help to reduce the appearance of acne, including whiteheads and blackheads, notes the AAD.

• Dermal fillers: To improve the look of acne scars, doctors inject them with fillers like collagen and hyaluronic acid. This stretches the scars and gives skin a smooth appearance. The Skin Care Guide points out that injections are only effective for rolling scars. Also, because results last three to six months, follow-up injections are necessary.
• Dermabrasion: A surgical procedure used effectively for years, dermabrasion uses a quick, sharp instrument — a brush or wheel — to remove the damaged surface skin. During the healing process, new, smoother skin appears.

  Dermabrasion is an appropriate treatment for boxcar scars, according to Dermatology Times. Whether it works on icepick scars is unclear. Heather Brannon, M.D., for About, writes that dermabrasion usually doesn't work, due to the depth of icepick scars. However, according to iVillage, these scars do respond well to dermabrasion.

• Microdermabrasion: Known as a "lunchtime procedure," microdermabrasion removes a superficial layer of skin, exfoliating it. It’s useful for mild scarring and most effective in a series, according to the Skin Care Guide.
• Laser resurfacing (or ablative lasers): Removes the top layers of skin and encourages collagen production. Laser resurfacing is particularly helpful for boxcar scars, according to the Skin Care Guide. But, typically, it isn’t effective on icepick scars, notes Dr. Brannon. On the other hand, iVillage states laser therapy is an ideal treatment for these scars.

  The most common lasers are carbon dioxide, or CO2, and Erbium YAG lasers. Though effective, laser resurfacing has a long recovery and side effects, such as "permanent whitening of the skin and scarring," as with CO2 lasers, notes Eric F. Bernstein, M.D., for The Patient’s Guide to Acne Scars. Also, because your skin requires more time to heal, it remains open, leaving it sensitive and susceptible to infection.

• Fractional laser therapy: Unlike ablative lasers, fractional laser therapy, a non-ablative option, doesn’t wound the skin. This makes for a faster healing time and less side effects. Fractional treatment works by puncturing some parts of the skin and leaving others untouched. The untreated skin then begins to heal the treated skin with new tissue.

  Dr. Baumann describes the results (after about three sessions) as "impressive." She writes that the key lies in Fraxel’s ability to heal scars from the inside out by encouraging collagen production.

7 Steps to Combat Adult Acne

Adult acne is a very common skincare concern and certainly an embarrassing and exasperating one. Discover how you can create a skincare routine that treats and prevents breakouts.

Blemish basics

• It isn’t always raging hormones that cause acne, though it’s the most common reason. Other contributing factors include genetics, stress, certain medications and bacteria.
• Women are prone to hormonal breakouts during their periods.
• Acne results when bacteria, dead skin cells, dirt and oil get trapped in your pores.
• Most commonly, blemishes are either whiteheads (closed comedones) or blackheads (open comedones).
• Blemishes that are red, swollen and painful to the touch are called cysts, occurring when bacteria and oil become trapped deep down in the pores; these are the most difficult to treat and can easily leave scars.
• Acne usually worsens during the hotter months of summer.

Acne-fighting ingredients

While in the past adults suffering from acne had few options, today you’ll find countless treatments tailored specifically for grown-up skin. When buying products, look for these main ingredients:

• Salicylic acid: A beta hydroxy acid derived from white willow bark that has exfoliating and antiseptic properties. It will help keep your skin smooth and prevent a build-up of dead skin cells. Importantly, if you’re allergic to aspirin, avoid salicylic acid; their chemical compositions are similar.


• Benzoyl peroxide: Naturally antibacterial and antiseptic, benzoyl peroxide works by exfoliating and drying excess oil and sebum. If your skin is dry or sensitive, avoid benzoyl peroxide; it's too drying for these skin types.


• Glycolic acid: Helps remove deep impactions from the pores, reducing excess oil and preventing bacteria from building up in the hair follicle.


• Sulfur: Deep-cleansing agent that helps to kill bacteria, absorb oil and loosen dead skin cells.

Seven steps to clearer skin

1. Be consistent. For acne-prone skin, consistency is key. Constantly switching products can exacerbate acne, so stick with your new routine for at least several weeks (or months) to give skin time to respond.

Why not immediate results? Because many blemishes begin to form weeks before they appear on your face. So, acne will typically look worse before it gets better, while the products work to "purge" blemishes hiding just beneath the skin.

2. Start with a clean slate. Prevent acne by properly cleansing the skin, morning and night, with an acne-fighting cleanser like Murad AHA/BHA Cleanser or SkinCeuticals Clarifying Cleanser. Many think cleansing in the mornings is useless, since you've already removed all traces of makeup the night before. But, as you sleep, oils and pollutants actually build up on your skin’s surface.

If your medicated cleanser becomes too drying to use twice a day, apply it only at night and use a non-medicated cleanser like Caudalie Gentle Cleanser in the mornings.

3. Eliminate dead skin. Exfoliating will remove dead skin cells, dirt, oil and debris, encourage new cell turnover and might even help minimize the appearance of acne scars.

Manual exfoliators use tiny beads to slough off imperfections from the skin’s surface. Use a gentle formula, such as Sothys Gommage Exfoliant, two to three times a week. You can also apply a chemical exfoliant. MD Skincare Alpha Beta^® Daily Face Peel/2 Steps uses alpha and beta hydroxy acids to reduce pores size and even out skin tone.

Don’t use exfoliating products too often or scrub too aggressively — this can cause small cuts in the skin’s surface that allow bacteria to creep in, causing blemishes.

4. Always hydrate. Moisturizing is important to adult skin, because as we age, our skin tends to get drier. Even if your skin is extremely oily, it will still benefit from a lightweight moisturizer at least once a day. Plus, acne-fighting treatments, though effective, can be harsh and drying to the skin.

Also, acne products can make your skin more susceptible to sun damage. Try using a moisturizer with sunscreen every morning. Peter Thomas Roth Max Sheer All Day Moisture Defense SPF 30 will hydrate and protect without clogging your pores.

5. Spot your solution. To shrink existing blemishes, use a spot treatment. Look into these various options: NeoCeuticals Acne Spot Treatment Gel, Murad Exfoliating Acne Treatment Gel, Cellex-C Skin Perfecting Pen, Philosophy On A Clear Day Blemish Serum.

6. Mask the problem. Facial masks are a great way to dry up blemishes and clear up imperfections. Try a mask with specialized ingredients that reduce inflammation and absorb oil, such as Pevonia Purifying Skin Mask and Bliss Instant Mattification 10-Minute Mask.

Applied once a week, acne masks should leave blemished areas looking and feeling calmer and less inflamed. More importantly, they'll help clear blemishes faster by reducing bacteria that blocks the hair follicle.

7. Seek help. If your acne still hasn’t cleared up, don’t hesitate to consult a dermatologist. Combating acne early can prevent acne scarring and discoloration.

The Skinny on Dry Skin

You might think that your skin is impervious to dryness, but think again. For most people, especially as we get older, dry skin is a very common problem.

What is it?

Often, dry skin can easily be confused with dehydrated skin, yet the two are very different. Dry skin is skin that has stopped producing the natural oil (sebum) which lubricates and keeps the skin soft and moist. Dehydrated skin is skin that has lost surface moisture, such as from bathing in extremely hot water or a swimming pool. Aside from environmental conditions, experts point to several factors that can play a role in causing the skin to feel dry.

• Moisture loss. Moisture is lost through the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis. This layer is made up of skin cells, oils and fats and it keeps the skin hydrated while also creating a barrier against harmful substances. According to the Physician's Desk Reference, "...when the stratum corneum dries out, it loses its protective function. This allows greater water loss."
• Sun damage. The sun emits dangerous UV radiation that can damage and weaken skin. Over time, this exposure can lead to intrinsic damage to skin cells, which also means the skin loses its ability to retain moisture. As previously discussed, moisture loss is a key component of dry skin.
• Less oil production. As the skin matures, the production of sebum typically tends to slow down, causing the skin to feel and look dry.
• Weather and climate. Each season, the humidity level of the air changes, in turn causing a change in the moisture level of skin. Also, different geographic regions can also affect the skin. Extreme northern climates or arid deserts of the southwest both suck away dryness and leave the skin papery dry. Interior climates also affect the skin: heat and air conditioning force moisture from the air, and the skin.
• Medical conditions. Some health problems are also related to dry skin. Examples are diabetes, kidney disease, thyroid disorders, AIDS and cancer. In addition, dry skin is often seen in patients with eczema or psoriasis.
• Medications. A variety of prescription and over-the-counter medications can lead to dry skin including diuretics and drugs for high cholesterol. Retinoid treatments for acne and aging skin are also notorious for their drying effects. Plus, some medications increase skin’s sensitivity to the sun, which means a greater risk of UV damage, affecting the skin’s ability to retain moisture.

What to do

First and foremost, dry skin needs moisture, however; there are several practical, everyday tweaks to your normal routine which will provide relief.

• Avoid hot water. Although a steamy hot bath may be your favorite way to unwind, hot water strips skin of moisture and the natural protective oils. Adjust the water temperature to warm or minimize taking hot baths to once a week. Also, don’t soak for longer than 10-20 minutes.
• Creamy cleansers. When washing your face, pick a gentle, creamy, soap-free cleanser which will remove dirt and impurities yet respect the moisture balance of the skin. Try Murad Moisture Rich Cleanser. Also, forgo heavily scented or perfumed cleansers as these can also lead to dryness and instead, go for a fragrance-free option: L’Occitane Shea Cotton Ultra Comforting Cleansing Milk. And for the shower, lather up with moisturizing body wash instead of bar soap such as MD Skin Care Moisturizing Body Wash.

• Moisturize often. Moisturizers bind water to skin and help the stratum corneum lock in hydration. Look for formulas that contain lanolin, shea butter or hyaluronic acid to keep skin from feeling dry or itchy. For face, Murad Perfecting Night Cream will moisturize with sunflower oil and squalene and for the body, butter up with L’Occitane Shea Butter Body Lotion with 15% pure shea butter.
• Wear Sunscreen. Defend yourself from harmful UV rays which break down skin and zap moisture. Plus, sunscreen protects against age spots, wrinkles and can help ward off skin cancer. Choose a sunscreen made specifically for dry skin to boost moisture levels, with an SPF 15 or higher such as Ole Henriksen Sun Light Protection Crème with Green Tea SPF 30.
• Use a humidifier. It’s an easy way to put moisture back into the air when humidity levels are low, especially during cold winter months.
• Drink up. We’ve all heard how important it is to drink plenty of water — up to eight glasses a day, say many experts. Sufficient water intake is critical for all bodily components so strive to drink enough water each day.

Makeup for Dry Skin

You might think that hiding dry skin under loads of makeup is the answer to dryness, however; over-applying makeup will only accentuate this condition.

Pre-makeup prep

Before reaching into your makeup bag, start with a clean, hydrated face. This critical step will ensure skin is ready for makeup and it only takes a few extra seconds to add moisturizer, eye cream and makeup primer. The payoff — makeup will last longer and remain fresh and pretty all day.

• Get much-needed hydration with a moisturizer made for dry skin. A great choice is L’Occitane Immortelle Precious Cream.
• Eye treatments make smile lines, crow’s feet and dark circles less noticeable. Try StriVectin SD Eye Cream. Pat a small amount (the size of a pearl) between the ring fingers and then lightly apply around the eyes, and up over the brow bone. Do not apply directly to the eyelids.
• For the final step of makeup prep, apply a makeup primer, like Skindinavia Face and Eye Makeup Primer. Primer temporarily fills in and smoothes imperfections in the skin, allowing foundation to adhere cleanly and completely.

Concealer and foundation

These makeup basics are key to getting even-toned skin. Many women think that concealer and foundation must be used over the entire face, however, experts disagree and stress that concealer and foundation can be equally as useful when used only where needed, such as to hide redness, dark circles, or on cheeks, forehead and chin

• Concealer. Use concealer to hide under-eye circles or broken blood vessels around the nose. Opt for a creamy consistency that’s one shade lighter than your skin tone and use a concealer brush for the most precise application and blending. Be sure to use a brush that is made from synthetic materials, such as nylon or Taklon, as these fibers will blend the product rather than absorbing it. Try: Amazing Cosmetics Concealer Brush.
• Foundation. Foundations are often specialized for skin type, especially dry. Check the label for words like "age defying," "moisturizing" or "hydrating." In general, dryer skin will enjoy a thicker, creamier foundation such as Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Plump Perfect Makeup SPF15.

Another factor to consider is how much coverage you need or the amount of discoloration you want to hide. For women with an even complexion yet who desire a bit of color, look to tinted-moisturizer rather than traditional foundation for an easy, all-in-one product. MD Skincare All-In-One Tinted Moisturizer SPF 15 combines sun-protective moisturizer with a bit of color in one easy-to-use product.

• Pass on the powder. If your skin is severely dry, or flaking, skip pressed powder. Not only will powder further dry out the skin, it can cause the skin to look dull and tired, rather than fresh and matte. Plus, powder settles into lines and wrinkles, accentuating them. If, however, your skin is dry to normal, and you desire to set foundation with powder, opt for one that features hydrating ingredients, such as Stila Illuminating Powder Foundation, which has shea butter and an illuminating finish on the skin.

Eye makeup

Dry skin and wrinkles often go together, especially around the eyes. Unfortunately, powder eye shadows, which can settle into lines, tend to accentuate wrinkles, as do shimmery and frosted shadows. Your best bet is cream eye shadow. Go for shades that make eyes appear wider and more open such as off-white, pearl or bone. For added depth, add some contrast with mocha brown, chocolate, navy, plum or forest green.

Pencil eyeliners are a great way to get extra definition along your lash line. To prevent eyeliner from looking too intense, carefully smudge it with a makeup brush or cotton swab. Neutral gray and brown colors are great choices for all eye colors such as ColorScience Eye Pencil Shades of Gray or Cup O’ Joe.

Blush

Dry-skinned women complain that it’s difficult to get an even application of color on cheeks. Helen Foster, author of The Beauty Book, explains that when blush is absorbed by dry skin, it "leaves dusty, blotchy pigmentation on the surface". To avoid blush-disappearance, try cream blush or even better, a blush-stain, which temporarily 'stains' the skin with clear, intense, deep color that lasts all day. Stila Convertible Color, a lightweight cream blush is available in a wide range of fresh shades as is DuWop Blush Therapy.

Lipstick

Dry lips can be chapped, cracked and exhibit a rough texture, practically ensuring that lipstick won’t last long. Even worse, lipstick has a tendency to seep or smudge into lines around the mouth. Getting dry lips into shape requires extra TLC. To start, exfoliate away dry skin with Philosophy Kiss Me Exfoliating Lip Scrub once or twice a week. Then, use a moisturizing, conditioning lip balm at least twice a day such as MD Formulations Lip Balm, containing vitamin E, aloe and peppermint oil to lock in moisture and prevent dryness.

When applying lip color, trace lips with a lip pencil in the same color as your lipstick. Then, use the pencil to color in lips. This will keep lipstick in place and give it longer wear. Finally, slick on a moisturizing lipstick with vitamins: Stila SPF 20 Shine Lip Color or Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream Lip Protectant for a final flourish.

Makeup for Combination Skin: A Beautiful Duo

Does it seem like different areas of your face can’t seem to agree? If you notice dry cheeks and an oily t-zone, you have combination skin, which requires unique skincare. And, makeup.

Prep time

For all skin types, flawless makeup application starts with basic skincare, and combination skin is no exception. It’s essential to balance the oily and dry areas before you apply makeup, or you’ll likely end up with uneven coverage. Try these tips:

• Cleanser. Wash the face twice a day with a mildly active cleanser that will whisk away dirt, oil and impurities without irritating the skin, but avoid heavy cream cleansers which can leave the skin feeling uncomfortably heavy or oily. Gel formulas are a great option that will respect the differing needs of the skin such as Murad Refreshing Cleanser.
• Exfoliation. Exfoliation is a key step for all skin types, especially combination, which can suffer from a build-up of dead, flakey skin in the T-zone. Twice a week, gently massage a dime-sized amount of a facial scrub like PCA SKIN pHaze 4 Gentle Exfoliant over damp skin in a circular motion, focusing on forehead, nose and chin. For an added buffer on dry areas, mix the exfoliator with your cleanser and then apply to the skin.
• Toners. Toners are used to remove excess oil or cleanser from the skin, so consider using it only on those active areas that need attention, such as the T-zone. Apply with 100 percent cotton or, pat gently over the skin with clean hands, and allow to dry before applying moisturizer. Try: SkinCeuticals Equalizing Toner.
• Masks. Masks are a once-a-week treat that can really benefit combination skin. Formulas with kaolin clay, bentonite clay or mud will refine the complexion without over-drying or causing irritation. Pevonia Balancing Combination Mask will purify and balance oily areas, as well as hydrate and energize dry areas with carrot oil and green apple.
• Moisturizer. Although it might not seem necessary, all skin types need moisturizer, even combination. And because combination skin struggles with essentially two skin conditions, oily and dry, finding a perfect moisturizer match can be tricky. Luckily, formulas that address this reality are easy to find. Pevonia Balancing Combination Skin Cream not only balances the two areas of the skin, it also protects with anti-aging super ingredients.
• Sunscreen. Sunscreen is a must, especially when outside or in direct sunlight. Oil-free formulas are a great choice.

Makeup matters

• Foundation. Foundation is designed to minimize imperfections and leave the skin radiant and luminous. But when two different types of skin are involved, how do you pick the right formula? There are a few options. Cream-to-powder foundation is a great choice for combination skin that will address the concerns of both oily and dry areas. These unique formulas go on like a cream, yet dry down to a velvety matte texture. Apply with a foundation brush for the smoothest coverage and blend carefully in the direction of hair growth.
• Powder. If further coverage is desired, finish foundation application with a light dusting of powder. Loose powders are often loaded with hydrating agents such as shea butter, and will lightly set foundation without settling into fine lines or causing the skin to look parched or dry while pressed powder is great for midday touch-ups in the T-zone. Mineral makeup is also a great choice for combination skin, offering natural pigments that even out skin tone and reduce shine. Philosophy Supernatural Air Brushed Canvas SPF is a talc-free formula that will leave the skin with a healthy, silken finish.
• Blush. Traditional powder blush or cheek stains are a great option for combination skin. Colorescience Retractable Blusher Brush is a loose mineral blush which blends smoothly with color-true tints. And for a natural flush, give cheeks a healthy glow with DuWop Blush Therapy, a translucent gel-stain that last all day and looks extremely natural.
• Eye shadow. According to Eve Pearl, five-time Emmy award-winning makeup artist, combination skin types should use powder eye shadow. The smooth, pigment rich texture of Stila eyeshadow will remain vibrant all day, yet blend with ease. In addition, the deeper tones can double as eyeliner when dampened.
• Maintenance. Combination skin, like oily skin, may need to touch-up certain areas during the day, such as the T-zone. To control your oily areas, use blotting papers throughout the day to control shine. Boscia Blotting Linens will whisk away excess shine while preventing breakouts (in oily areas) with California orange extract.

A Sticky Situation: Waxing

Summer’s in full swing and that means sassy shorts and skimpy swimsuits. Keep skin smooth, hair free and ready for summer fashions with waxing, an increasingly popular option for hair removal.

How it works

Waxing is a hair removal method that involves lifting or removing hair from the follicle by force with either hot or cold wax, and is suited to both small and large areas, such as eyebrows, upper lips, legs, bikini and underarms. In particular, dermatologist Heather Brannon, MD notes that waxing works especially well on large areas where you want a lot of hair removed quickly, making it very ideal for bathing suit season.

Whether in a salon or at home, there are three steps to perfectly waxed skin:

1. Wax is heated to a slightly warm (but never hot) temperature and a soft, spreadable consistency, similar to corn syrup.


2. Next, a thin layer of wax is applied to the skin. When wax touches the skin, sticky resins in the wax lock onto hair. Then, a muslin or cloth strip is pressed firmly and quickly into the wax.


3. When the wax has cooled slightly, the muslin strip is pulled off very quickly, in the opposite direction of the hair growth, taking hair with it.

One of the greatest benefits of waxing is actually during the re-growth phase. Unlike shaving or other hair removal methods, hair tends to look finer and thinner with consistent waxing. What does this mean for you? Eventually, a reduction in hair growth, and when hair does grow back, it will be less noticeable and, easier to remove, which equals less pain. This takes time, though; in fact, after your first waxing, hair may seem to grow back more quickly, but don’t lose faith. Like almost all skincare regimens, waxing requires dedication and consistency to see the best results.

At-home

Waxing doesn’t necessarily mean a trip to the salon — you can get everything you need in an at-home kit, which saves time, money and is massively convenient. Generally, there are two types of at-home waxing kits — those that require a muslin cloth to remove the hair, and those where the wax itself is ripped from the skin with no cloth. Both methods require the same basic protocol. As in a salon, wax should be heated according to manufacturer’s directions to the appropriate consistency, and then applied in a thin layer to the area to be epilated. If muslin or cloth strips are being used, smooth one quickly over the wax, pull skin taut and then rapidly pull the cloth strip off of the skin in one swift motion.

For stripless methods, heat wax per manufacturer’s instructions and apply to the skin. After a few seconds, firmly grip a corner of the wax and pull away from the skin in one firm motion. Bliss Poetic Waxing Kit is a complete, at-home, self-waxing kit designed for use on all areas that need to be hair-free, and comes with pre and post waxing lotion, a heating cup and an applicator for professional hair removal results in the comfort of home.

Well begun is half done

The key to waxing is to ensure that the skin is clean and free of dirt or oil, so before any wax is heated, take a few moments to prep the skin. Soak a cotton ball with a deep-cleansing astringent such as La Roche Possay Effaclar Toner Astringent Lotion and gently wipe the area to be waxed. If waxing a larger area, refrain from applying body lotion or cream as this can interfere with the wax adhering to the hair.

Unfortunately, waxing can be painful, but remember that everyone has a different perception of pain and, many waxing aficionados report that with time, the pain recedes. Also, the first time an area is waxed is typically the most painful. Whether a novice or a veteran, there are a few tricks to reduce discomfort. For the upper lip (or other small areas) apply Anbesol gel beforehand to numb the area. For overall comfort, pop two aspirin a few hours before waxing. If you wait until you’re ready to wax — or after — it’s too late. Finally, if possible, consider getting a prescription from your doctor for Emla cream, a topical numbing cream often used on children for suturing and stitches that will numb the area and reduce pain.

Post-wax care

A great waxing experience doesn’t stop when all the hair is gone. If any wax is leftover on the skin, douse a cotton ball in baby oil and gently wipe the area clean. Then, to minimize swelling and redness, apply a cold compress to the area. A wet washcloth or ice pack (wrapped in a towel) is ideal. Also ideal is a soothing cream such as ATOPALM MLE Cream, which will also help reduce redness. For the face, calm redness on the upper lip or eyebrows with Peter Thomas Roth Cucumber Gel Masque which contains aloe vera and other natural extracts.

One of the biggest concerns after waxing is ingrown hairs, or more specifically, how to prevent them. One great way to minimize the risk of ingrown hairs is to use salicylic acid. A great choice is Bliss Ingrown Hair Eliminating Peeling Pads. Never apply salicylic (or any other acid) to freshly waxed skin as it may sting or burn. Instead, wait at least one day before treating the area.

Complications

Very rarely, waxing will have negative side effects. If the wax is too hot, the potential for a burn is extremely high. When waxing at home, always follow directions for heating the wax carefully and check the temperature before applying to the skin. And use common sense: if the wax is steaming or the container seems extremely hot, wait and let the wax cool before proceeding. When at a spa, speak up and tell the esthetician if the wax feels too hot.

Also possible are pigment changes to the skin from waxing. Some women will find areas of hyperpigmentation on the skin as a result of waxing, especially around the upper lip. For many women, this hyperpigmentation will fade with time, but if you are very concerned, you may want to investigate other hair removal methods for this area.

And finally, although a safe and effective means of hair removal, waxing isn’t for everyone. Women who use topical retinoid treatments shouldn’t wax because retinoids may increase the risk of burning. Also, if you’ve recently had a chemical peel, don’t wax until your skin has healed and is no longer flaking and dry. The same goes for sunburned skin. Never wax right before menstruation as the skin is extra sensitive and waxing may be more painful at this time.

Atypical Acne: Chest and Arms

Just when you thought you had acne under control, annoying bumps and breakouts pop up in the most unlikely place: on the chest and backs of the arms. Acne can show up on the body for many reasons, at any age.

Causes

Although acne is most often associated with the face, it’s not uncommon for breakouts to occur on other parts of the body, and the chest and arms are prime targets. As with the face, acne shows up on the body for many of the same reasons: excess oil production and sluggish exfoliation of dead skin cells lead to an over-growth of bacteria with painful inflammation.

The sebaceous glands, located in the skin, produce sebum, an oil-like substance that hydrates and protects the skin. Under normal circumstances, when neither too much nor too little is present, sebum is a miraculous substance. It protects the skin from dehydration, and naturally keeps it smooth and supple. The troubles start when this production is disrupted, and too much sebum is left on the skin. In larger areas such as the arms and chest, there are more sebaceous glands, which increase the chance of breakouts.

Excess sebum on the skin does more than merely leave a shine. It also causes dead skin cells to clump together and stick to the inside of pores, plugging the opening and creating the perfect breeding ground for bacteria. The result? Inflammation, whiteheads, blackheads and ultimately, blemishes.

From bad to worse

Certain factors can increase the chances of developing acne on the chest or arms, or cause existing body acne to become worse.

• Tight clothing. If your clothes are constricting or the fabric rubs against the skin, it can create pressure, friction and irritation. Also, keep in mind that some fabrics don’t "breathe" as well as others, so moisture can’t evaporate. This is especially true of some synthetic fabrics.
• Damp or sweaty clothes. We all know that exercise is important to keep our bodies and our skin healthy. Whether you power-walk, hit the gym or play team sports, staying in damp, sweaty clothing afterwards is just asking for trouble because it provides the perfect environment for bacteria to flourish.
• Long hair. Surprising but true. According to DermalNetwork, long hair (past the shoulders) can transfer oil and dirt to the shoulders, back, arms and chest, which can lead to and increased risk of breakouts.

In the clear

The good news is that acne on the body can easily be treated. Common sense — and good hygiene — goes a long way when treating acne on the chest or arms. For starters, shower as soon as possible after exercise, vigorous activity or sweating. Choose a body wash with salicylic acid to control bumps and increase cell turnover: Murad Acne Body Wash has triclosan, as well, to kill bacteria.

Another great way to control acne is to use a purifying body mask. Try AHAVA Pure Spa Energizing Body Mud Mask Mandarin Cedarwood, made with pore-clearing mud and clay, as well as mandarin and cedarwood extracts. Leave it on for five minutes and rinse well. Spot treatments for individual blemishes are also a good idea. Look for one that contains benzoyl peroxide, glycolic acid, salicylic acid or tea tree oil. Jan Marini Benzoyl Peroxide 10%, Dr. Michelle Copeland Blemish Corrector and Intensive Acne Spot Treatment and Murad Clarifying Body Spray are all great choices.

Finally, loosen up! Opt for loose-fitting, breathable clothing that doesn’t constrict or trap moisture next to the skin. Cotton is one of the best fabrics for people prone to body breakouts.

Happy, Healthy Feet: 3 Steps to Pamper Your Soles At Home

By devoting mere minutes to your feet, you can rejuvenate them after a long, hard day. These three simple steps will soften rough heels, revitalize your sleepy soles and keep feet in tip-top shape.

1. Soak. After work take a load off and soak your tired travelers in a tub of warm water for eight to 10 minutes. Use Dead Sea salts or scented bath crystals to relax the muscles and soothe sore joints. These salts also cleanse wounds and help to relieve pain. In fact, Dead Sea salts have been used since ancient times to relax and beautify the skin. Cleopatra controlled the Dead Sea area and was responsible for numerous cosmetic and pharmaceutical factories along its borders.

• Product picks: Refresh your mind and body with SpaRitual Open Your Eyes 21 Mineral Bath Salts. These bath salts contain organic Australian eucalyptus essential oil, which soothes sore muscles and eases exhaustion. Don’t have time to soak your soles but want to reap the benefits of Dead Sea salts? Then, apply AHAVA Pure Spa Dead Sea Liquid Salt for feet that look and feel refreshed, smooth and soft.

2. Exfoliate. Foot scrubs are essential to fresh, healthy feet. The small microbeads slough away dead skin cells and soften brittle edges. To make your own scrub, use a mixture of salts and your favorite oils. Start with a base of two tablespoons Dead Sea salt and two tablespoons Epsom salts. Add a tablespoon of sweet almond oil and a tablespoon of rosehip oil. Work the scrub onto your feet, letting it set for 10 minutes. To spruce up traditional scrubs, add a few drops of spearmint oil to the mixture.

• Product picks: Use a gentle scrub, such as Barielle Cucumber Foot Scrub, to relieve inflammation and soften rough feet. For more powerful exfoliation, try a natural pumice scrub like Barielle Foot Restoration Scrub, which contains menthol and peppermint to invigorate the senses. To target stubborn calluses, use a heavy-duty foot buffer like Bliss Diamancel #10 Classic Buffer.

3. Moisturize. After soaking and scrubbing, show your feet some love with a mini-massage. Simply knead a hydrating lotion into your feet, starting with the toes and working back to the ankle, repeating the same motion on the sole. A simple foot massage will increase circulation, ease achy feet and improve your mood.

• Product picks: Hydrate your feet with a rescue treatment like Bliss Foot Patrol. This tingling treatment uses peppermint and salicylic acid to restore moisture. For help with calluses, Philosophy Soul Owner is specifically designed for troublesome areas and extremely dry skin, leaving feet smooth and supple.

When you’re in desperate need for a soothing session to calm fatigued feet, at-home treatments are a wonderful way to bring on the comfort and tranquility. Pick up some sea salts, a few oils and a heavy-duty lotion and tackle those rough spots!

The Basics of Body Wraps

Body wraps incorporate natural ingredients such as mud, herbs, clay, lotions and even seaweed for a variety of skincare and health benefits. Learn about these various types of treatments and how they work.

What to expect

Administered by an esthetician, massage therapist or another qualified practitioner, a body wrap is typically a two-part process that includes a specialized treatment applied to the skin, followed by the actual wrap.

Here are the specifics:

• To start, the specialist preps the skin with an exfoliating body scrub, which loosens dead, dry skin and revs up blood flow, increasing the efficacy of the actual wrap.
• After exfoliation, the specialist applies a body mask — usually a purifying substance such as mud, clay or seaweed — to the skin.
• Then, she uses plastic, Mylar, bandages, elastic cloths or other snug-fitting materials to tightly wrap the body (including the neck, torso, arms and legs), trapping the ingredients close to the skin and keeping it warm.
• Depending on the type of wrap, you may or may not be lying down during the treatment. For instance, you might wear some body wraps while exercising or even in a sauna.
• After a set amount of time, which varies depending upon the treatment, you'll either rinse off in the shower or the specialist will use a hand-held shower nozzle. Another option is the Vichy shower, which includes five to seven shower heads that pour water onto your skin while you're lying down comfortably.
• Once the skin is dry, the specialist applies emollient body lotions to seal in moisture and keep skin smooth and silky.

Treatment types

You’ll find a variety of body wraps in today’s salons. Here’s just a sampling of body wraps that aim to:

• Detoxify
  • A seaweed, algae, mud or clay body wrap can help to remove environmental toxins from the skin, reduce stress, increase circulation and normalize over-active oil glands.
  • The plastic or gauze material used to wrap the body also has detoxifying benefits. The tightness of the binding, combined with heat from the body causes sweating, which also releases toxins.
  • Skin should feel softer and look firmer. You also might notice relief from redness or acne after one treatment.
  • To maintain these benefits between treatments, keep L’Occitane Grape Warming Body Wrap on hand. This unique self-warming gel detoxifies and hydrates the body with a blend of red vine leaf extract, organic grape juice and grape seed oil.
• Slim down
  • Many spas offer wraps that claim to trim inches, but do they work? Proponents say yes — but, the results are temporary.
  • Slimming treatments often use elastic cloths or bandages to promote sweating and absorb excess fluids and toxins that cause the body to appear smaller. Advocates of these body wraps believe that toxins trapped in the skin can lead to cellulite, and many slimming body wraps are designed with this thought in mind.
  • Other slimming treatments temporarily trim inches in other ways, using such substances as caffeine. A diuretic, caffeine prevents water retention, which can lead to a perception of weight loss — though, in reality, it’s only water loss.
  • Other popular ingredients include sea water, paraffin wax or mud to compress fatty tissue and stimulate the metabolism.
• Manage pain
  • Body wraps also target pain, including muscle soreness, joint pain and aches from arthritis.
  • Some spas are even taking this process one step further by incorporating homeopathic or naturopathic elements into their body wraps to help with the accompanying side effects of pain, such as insomnia. But, it’s uncertain whether these treatments actually work.
• Hydrate
  • These body wraps target dry and sensitive skin by cocooning the skin with deeply hydrating agents, such as shea butter.
  • They also aim to help specific skin conditions, including psoriasis and eczema.
  • Not all dry skin conditions will benefit from a body wrap, however. For instance, extreme heat can aggravate rosacea, a condition that leaves the skin with dry patches.

Considerations

• Although body wraps may seem harmless enough, there are several significant concerns, including the risk of overheating, dehydration and circulation issues, dermatologist Joel Schlessinger, president of the American Society of Cosmetic Dermatology and Aesthetic Surgery, tells The Seattle Times.
• Many mainstream doctors also believe that the body doesn’t need detoxifying, because our kidneys and liver eliminate toxins on a regular basis, according to The Seattle Times.
• If you’re claustrophobic, avoid body wraps, because having your entire body wrapped up may make you very uncomfortable.

Finding the Best Body Scrub for You

Body scrubs are intended to provide a gentle, all-over exfoliation. However, many go above and beyond and are specially formulated to suit the special needs of your skin. Here’s how to select the ideal scrub.

The importance of exfoliation

What sets body scrubs apart from other all-over cleansers, such as body wash and shower gel, is that they have the ingredients and texture to provide a gentle and effective exfoliation — and all in the comfort of your own shower!

Exfoliation is essential for your skin’s health, because it:

• Removes dead skin cells


• Promotes the appearance of vibrant skin


• Prevents clogged pores


• Prevents breakouts


• Allows better absorption of cream and other skin care products

Selecting your scrub

In addition to exfoliation, you’ll find a number of other advantages to using a body scrub. Some specialized scrubs are formulated to combat your toughest skin care challenges, while others pamper your skin with sweet-smelling aromatherapy.

So, how do you select the right product with scores of scrubs on the market? Here’s the scoop on what scrubs offer, so you can determine which ones will target your skincare needs.

• Hydration. Many body scrubs contain ingredients that heal dry skin and replenish moisture. If parched skin is one of your top concerns, try these products:
  • Whish Almond Three Whishes Sugar Scrub contains almond oil — an ingredient that hydrates even the driest of skin.
  • The natural extracts in Philosophy Amazing Grace Hot Salt Scrub will moisturize and smooth dry skin as it exfoliates.
• Aroma. Body scrubs are often associated with aromatherapy and many brands offer soothing smells designed to add pleasure to your shower experience. Whether you prefer sugary-sweet scents or botanical blends, you can easily create a spa-like ambiance with an aroma-inspired scrub.
  • Who says that sweet and sensible can’t go together? The deliciously sweet smell and powerful antioxidants featured in B. Kamins Maple Sugar Body Scrub will pamper your skin and your senses.
  • Molton Brown Warming Eucalyptus And Ginger Body Scrub combines pure eucalyptus oil, ginger and exfoliating sea salts to create a unique aroma that will enliven your senses while rejuvenating your skin.
• Specialized care. When choosing a body scrub, keep in mind that some are specifically created for certain parts of the body.
  • Feet. H2O Plus Pumice Foot Scrub is the perfect scrub for tackling tough dry skin and calluses.
  • Face. Dr. Michelle Copeland Honey Almond Scrub contains vitamin C to stimulate cell renewal as well as almond and honey extract to slough away dead skin. Facial scrubs are always gentler than products formulated for the body, so never use a body scrub to exfoliate your face — unless the directions say you can.
  • Lips. Gently exfoliate dry, flaky lips with Philosophy Kiss Me Exfoliating Lip Scrub, which gives your pout a smooth, supple appearance.
• Specific solutions. You can also choose from scrubs that target specific skin problems.
  • Cellulite and stretch marks. Juara Skincare Invigorating Coffee Scrub contains coffee, which not only provides the perfect pick-me-up for those early morning showers, but also helps to tighten loose skin.
  • Discoloration. MD Formulations Face And Body Scrub improves skin texture and is great for preparing the skin for a self-tanner. It’s particularly helpful for mature, photo-aged skin.
  • Acne. DDF Acne Scrub is a foaming cleanser that helps to reduce clogged pores and prevent blemishes.

10 Steps to a Perfect Shave

What do your golf swing, tennis serve and shaving technique all have in common? All three require careful, precise skill. We can't do much for your golf or tennis game, but we can help with your daily shave. These 10 simple steps will do the trick.

1. Wait about 30 minutes after getting up in the morning before shaving. This allows facial muscles to tighten and gives whiskers a better chance to stand up from the skin. Massage the areas you plan to shave — the stimulation gets your skin ready for shaving and helps wake you up.
2. Soak a clean, soft washcloth under warm water. Then, place the washcloth on your face — this softens the hair and opens your pores for a better shave.
3. Cleanse the skin for two minutes twice a day. Use circular motions with a cleanser made for your skin type. If skin seems normal to combination, try MD Formulations Cleanser Basic. For dry skin, a great choice is Anthony Logistics Algae Facial Cleanser. Got oily skin or breakouts? Anthony Logistics Anti-Acne Cleanser is for you. Not sure what type of skin you have? See an esthetician, who can determine your skin type and also match an effective treatment to it.
4. Exfoliate skin with a product like Peter Thomas Roth Botanical Buffing Beads. Put a dime-sized amount in your hands and use circular motions when applying to the skin. Get in and around the nose and upper lip, where dead skin loves to hide.

   Dead skin can clog pores, making a nesting ground for ingrown hairs and trapped bacteria. Ingrown hairs then lead to unsightly, painful bumps. Exfoliating twice a week will reduce dead skin, post-shaving ingrowns and razor bumps.

5. Apply shaving cream and massage it in well. What's important is the quality of the application, not the quantity of shaving cream applied. Your razor needs to get through the lather to the skin's surface, instead of swimming through the cream searching for hair. Check out MD Formulations Men’s Shave Crème.
6. Shave jaw line and cheeks first. Then, go inward toward lips, neck and chin, where hair is thickest. Shaving with the grain is best, because it goes in the direction of natural beard growth. Also, since you remove up to three layers of skin by shaving, don't go over the same area multiple times with your razor.
7. When you're finished, always rinse your razor. Keep it clean and free of hair. Store your razor in a dry sterile place away from bacteria. Replace the blades when they become dull. If you use a disposable razor, throw it out and grab a fresh one at least once a week. Note that most new razors will feel harsh the first few times you use them.
8. Take another clean washcloth, run it under warm or cool water and wipe excess shaving cream off your face. Never splash your skin with water or rub your face with a dry washcloth after cleansing.
9. Once or twice a week, apply a cooling mask to the entire face and let it sit for a few minutes. Try The Art of Shaving After Shave Mask. This extra step in your weekly routine will aid your skin's repair process after a shave.
10. Every skin type requires moisture, even if your skin is oily. Because shaving takes away valuable moisture, you need to use a moisturizer. Buy a moisturizer with SPF 15 or higher, such as Ahava Men's Protective Moisturizing Fluid SPF 15, and apply it year-round to protect your skin from UV damage.

Attention All Manly Men: Steps to Simple Skincare

Gone are the days of men laughing off skincare as too girly or pointless. Now guys want healthy skin, too. In recent years, new skincare lines exclusively catering to male consumers have launched, while traditional beauty houses have also created formulas. With so many options for skincare, how do you know exactly what to choose?

Well, good news for the average guy who wants to take care of his skin, but is overwhelmed with the plethora of products on today’s shelves: Skincare can be simple! Follow these steps for an easy, effective approach to getting a clean complexion.

Ditch the bar soap. Many men mistakenly think that using ordinary bar soap in the shower is sufficient for cleansing the face. However, soap can actually do more harm than good by stripping your face of its natural oils. Instead, use a facial cleanser to dissolve daily dirt and grime for clear, healthy skin.

To save on time, apply your cleanser in the shower while your skin is already wet. Simply massage a small amount of product over the face and neck, rinse carefully and pat dry. After you get out of the shower, apply lotion immediately to lock in the moisture.

Scrub it off. You should exfoliate your face regularly two to three times a week to get rid of dead skin cells. Exfoliating encourages new cell growth, minimizes fine lines and wrinkles and makes shaving easier.

With dozens of different formulations and products, today’s exfoliators are sophisticated yet simple concoctions featuring vitamins, minerals, herbs and plant extracts, all designed to soften and smooth without damaging the top layer of skin.

Improve your tone. If you’re like most guys, you don’t want any grease, film, dirt or soap left over on your face after cleansing. This is where your toner comes in. Pour some on a cotton ball or cotton round; then apply it to skin with gentle strokes.

Smooth moves. Although men’s skin is thicker and tends to be coarser than a woman’s, moisturizing is still an important part of your basic routine. Fact is, environmental damage, free radicals and pollution don’t discriminate — every gender and skin type is an easy target. Give your skin the ability to fight back.

Also, try an anti-aging moisturizer with high levels of wrinkle-fighting and skin-smoothing ingredients. If your skin is oily, look for a moisturizer that’s oil-free.

Take cover. Add sunblock to your year-round routine to ward off environmental damage and prevent fine lines and wrinkles. In the morning, you can substitute sunblock for your moisturizer.

Although men have the advantage of being less prone to wrinkles than women, many guys neglect to apply sunscreen daily. This increases your risk for sunburn and skin cancer. So, make sunscreen part of your daily routine, like brushing your teeth and checking the sports page.

Know thyself. Before you purchase any products, it’s important you understand your skin. Is your skin type dry, oily or a combination of the two? If you’re unsure, consult a dermatologist or skincare professional (like an esthetician at a salon).

The shopping list

So what skincare items do you need? Check the list:

Cleanser. For a simple, multi-purpose product, try a cleanser and toner in one, like MD Skin Care All-In-One Facial Cleanser w/ Toner. Need a daily cleanser without the frilly scents? Pevonia FOR HIM Aqua-Gel Foaming Cleanser cleans and moisturizers with a natural, masculine scent.

Exfoliator. For powerful exfoliation, try Bliss Pore Perfecting Facial Polish, formulated with fine micro-exfoliators to lift dry, dull skin, leaving the face smooth. For a milder scrub, try Peter Thomas Roth Botanical Buffing Beads. Featuring jojoba beads, this scrub gently dissolves dry, rough skin and can be used on the body.

Toner. Looking for a deep clean without dryness or burning? Then try Anthony Logistics Alcohol-Free Toner, a botanical formula that soothes and moisturizes your skin while removing traces of impurities. For oily or acne-prone skin, opt for SkinMedica Acne Toner.

Sunscreen. Choose a formula that blocks both UVA and UVB rays, such as Peter Thomas Roth Max Sheer All Day Moisture Defense SPF 30. It’s even ideal for oily and acne-prone skin.

Moisturizer. Oily skin will benefit from a moisturizer that’s oil-free, featuring ingredients like salicylic acid, witch hazel or retinol. Check out Dr. Brandt Poreless Moisture.

In addition, numerous products not only keep your skin hydrated and healthy, but minimize the signs of aging as well. Try MD Formulations Men’s Moisture Defense Antioxident Serum for intense age-fighting, wrinkle-reducing moisture, suitable for any guy.

For dry skin, use formulations that include vitamin C, shea butter or olive oil, such as Philosophy Hope In A Jar For Dry/Sensitive Skin.

Men’s Hair Loss: Not a Losing Battle

What causes men to lose their hair? Is it genetics? What treatments are available? Find out the common reasons for hair loss — also known as alopecia — and what really works to treat it.

How hair grows

Here’s a simple way to understand the hair growth cycle: Hair doesn’t grow like grass. If it did, you would expect every hair to be growing at the same rate on your scalp. After a period of time, all the hairs would end their life span together and fall out simultaneously. This would leave you totally bald until a new crop began to grow.

Instead, the hair growth cycle prevents this all-or-nothing scenario, because every hair grows at a different rate on your scalp. At any one time, about 90 percent of the hairs are in a growing phase, a process that can take from two to six years, according to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD).

As such, 10 percent of the hair rests for several months until it’s ready to shed, writes AAD. Once a hair falls out, the body immediately gets busy growing a new hair to replace it. Per day, you can lose up to 100 hairs, according to AAD.

What affects the hair cycle

Many circumstances can impact the hair cycle, increasing the amount of hair that falls out. These include chemical hair treatments, heredity, age, hormones, fever, infection and medications. After you’ve recovered, however, hair can resume its normal growth rate.

Noticing a pattern

Hair loss doesn’t happen overnight; it typically starts in your 20s or 30s. By age 50, up to half of men experience hair loss, according to the University of British Columbia Hair Research & Treatment Center.

Common male pattern baldness can result from androgen levels and genetics.

• Hormones. A man’s higher levels of testosterone — an androgen — are largely responsible for male pattern baldness. An enzyme turns testosterone into dihydrotestosterone or DHT. Then, a reaction occurs between DHT and hormones in hair follicles. The result is less growth of new hair or no new hair growth at all, according to About.
• Genetics. Some researchers believe that the X chromosome — passed on by your mother — is related to hair loss. In fact, a German study found that “the resemblance should be greater between affected males and their maternal grandfathers than between affected males and their fathers,” writes Miranda Hitti for WebMD. So, if your mother’s father was bald, there’s a chance you might be as well.

For most men, hair loss follows a specific pattern. The so-called “pattern” of male baldness starts at the front of the hair near your forehead, where your hairline recedes. In addition, “hair at the crown also begins to thin,” notes MedHelp. As this happens, more and more scalp on the top of your head will become visible.

Treatments to try

In the past few years, dermatologists have seen a rise in hair loss consultations — probably due to a variety of reasons. For one, today’s increasing emphasis on cosmetic appearance makes people more aware of the issue than in previous generations. Also, education on hair loss and new treatments are bringing more patients with alopecia to dermatologists.

• Topical treatments such as minoxidil (Rogaine) slow hair loss as well as promote hair regrowth. In fact, according to the University of British Columbia Hair Research & Treatment Center, 10 percent of men who use Rogaine have “cosmetically acceptable regrowth.” How? The mechanism isn’t completely understood, but minoxidil can encourage new growth from hair follicles.

  Be patient — it can take up to six months before you notice any changes, according to the American Family Physician. This treatment option may work best for younger men with small bald areas who are just starting to lose their hair.

  Unfortunately, if you stop using Rogaine, hair loss will return. Also, some men can experience scalp itching or redness from Rogaine.

• Oral therapy with finasteride (Propecia) halts hair loss and promotes hair regrowth by lowering testosterone production. Remember, when testosterone becomes DHT, it affects your follicles and prevents regrowth. Propecia “reversed hair loss in 66 percent of men,” reports the University of British Columbia Hair Research & Treatment Center.

  As with Rogaine, however, hair loss will return if you discontinue Propecia. Side effects like diminished sex drive might result, since the medicine affects testosterone.

• Transplantation surgery or grafting is a more dramatic option. In this procedure, hair is taken from a donor area of your head — where your hair is thicker — and transplanted into thinner balding areas. Follicles through which hair grows are also transplanted along with the hair.

  Although the process is often successful and most people are happy with the results, you might need multiple transplants to get the desired look of thickness. Expect some discoloration, pain and swelling along transplant areas. You might even experience temporary numbness, which can last up to three months, according to The American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery. Scarring and infection are also possible, warns MedHelp. If you opt for transplant surgery, be sure to do your homework; choose a licensed, qualified surgeon and ask to see before and after photos of patients who’ve had the same procedure.

  In addition, keep costs in mind. Some men will need more hair transplanted than others, based on the amount of hair they’ve lost. The price of the surgery is based on the number of grafts required and the number of sessions needed to get the look you want. Anesthesia or other medical costs might be involved, too. The total cost of a hair transplant ranges between $4,000 and $15,000, according to Hair Transplant Costs.

A Guy’s Guide to Getting Rid of Acne

Think you outgrew acne in your teens? Think again. The reality is that acne can persist beyond adolescence into adulthood. Find out why — and how skincare can help to combat this aggravating condition.

Spotting the enemy

Acne occurs when the dead skin cells, sebum and bacteria naturally present in the skin become trapped inside of a pore. Because the bacteria responsible for acne, P. Acnes, is anaerobic and does not need oxygen to survive, it flourishes in blocked pores, leading to either non-inflammatory or inflammatory breakouts. Non-inflammatory lesions include:

• Blackheads (open comedones) are plugs of dead skin and sebum which block the pore opening and resemble tiny pepper flecks. They are most often seen around the nose, on the chin and sometimes even the cheeks, and rarely turn into inflammatory acne.
• Whiteheads (closed comedones) are blockages that are too large for the pore opening, resulting in a raised plug of white blood cells, often called pus. Unlike blackheads, white heads can very easily turn into inflammatory acne.

Inflammatory acne is the more serious form of acne that exhibits much larger, deeply impacted blemishes that are red and inflamed:

• Papules, pustules, nodules and cysts are painful, hard bumps deep within skin. These infections are often irritated and red and can be extremely difficult to treat with over-the-counter products.

How acne forms

Multiple factors can trigger an outbreak of acne, wreaking havoc on skin.

• Oil production. During puberty, sebaceous glands begin churning out sebum (oil), the body’s natural moisturizer. When too much sebum is excreted by the skin, acne can often appear as a result.
• Dead skin cells. As skin cells die; they are sloughed off and replaced by new ones. When too many dead skin cells build up along the lining of the pore, they 'stick' together with the excess sebum and block the pore opening, leading to whiteheads and blackheads.
• Bacterial growth. The P. Acnes bacteria thrives and multiples rapidly in the dark, warm confines of a pore. When the contents of the pore swell past normal, a small eruption can occur in the cell wall, spewing the dead skin cells and bacteria into surrounding tissues. When this happens, white blood cells are sent to investigate, leading to redness and inflammation.
• Hormones. In addition to being linked to all things manly, testosterone is a major culprit in the appearance of acne. Not only does this hormone signal the skin to increase oil production, it starts raging in early teen years, which can kickoff a long fight with blemishes. Beyond teen years, certain glandular disorders may also boost testosterone production, leading to acneic skin conditions.

A fighting chance for clear skin

Now that you know where acne comes from, it’s time to learn how to combat these factors. Several active ingredients, such as salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide, are all-stars in the game plan to clear up the skin. But be patient — most treatments take several weeks or more to work.

• Salicylic acid exfoliates away the dead skin cells that block the pore opening and encourages cell turnover. For overall clarity, use a cleanser with salicylic acid twice a day such as Anthony Logistics Anti Acne Cleanser. Individual blemishes will soon be gone with the extra-help of Murad Acne Spot Treatment, which features sulfur and zinc oxide to encourage healing. Apply to individual blemishes two to three times a day.
• Benzoyl peroxide (BP) kills the P.Acnes bacteria by releasing oxygen into the pore. Look for it in concentrations ranging anywhere from two to ten percent, or higher, but be cautious; higher concentrations can leave the skin overly dry and flakey. Start with a lower percentage and work up from there. Cleansers are available for the entire face, such as PCA Skin pHaze 31 BPO 5% Cleanser. You can also try a spot-treatment for smaller areas, such as Menscience Acne Spot Repair.

Because both ingredients make skin more vulnerable to UV rays, which could lead to sunburn or skin cancer, use of a daily sunscreen is a good idea. A moisturizer with an SPF is ideal to both lock in hydration and protect the skin: Jack Black Sun Guard Oil-Free Very Water/Sweat Resistant Sunscreen SPF 30+ is perfect for daily use as well as outdoor activities and sports.

Prescription treatments

If you have tried over-the-counter products and still aren’t seeing a reduction in breakouts, it’s time for a trip to the dermatologist for clinical strength, prescription treatments.

• Retin-A (Tretinoin). Retin-A is a topical retinoid derived from vitamin A that clears out clogged pores and reduces oil production by the sebaceous glands. Results may take several months and side effects such as drying, peeling or flaking are possible. Sunscreen must be worn daily — Retin-A makes skin more sensitive to UV rays.
• Antibiotics. These can be either oral or topical — lotions, creams or gels — that are used on a daily basis to kill the bacteria that causes acne. Results may take several months to appear and as with Retin-A, sun protection must be worn each day.
• Accutane (isotretinoin). This oral medication wages war on acne in several important ways: it shrinks sebaceous glands, lowers oil production, stops bacterial growth and calms inflammation. Unfortunately, severe side effects can occur, including dry, irritated skin, headaches, nausea, stomach pain, diarrhea, joint and muscle pains, hair loss, vision problems and mood changes. Inform your doctor immediately if you notice any of these changes.